this post was submitted on 30 Oct 2023
27 points (96.6% liked)

3DPrinting

15197 readers
58 users here now

3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices.

The r/functionalprint community is now located at: !functionalprint@kbin.social or !functionalprint@fedia.io

There are CAD communities available at: !cad@lemmy.world or !freecad@lemmy.ml

Rules

If you need an easy way to host pictures, https://catbox.moe may be an option. Be ethical about what you post and donate if you are able or use this a lot. It is just an individual hosting content, not a company. The image embedding syntax for Lemmy is ![](URL)

Moderation policy: Light, mostly invisible

founded 1 year ago
MODERATORS
 

I have a Sapphire Plus printer which I have heavily modified (out of the box it is a piece of junk). After finally changing the mainboard and installing Klipper I got it to print reliably. Of course the next thing I wanted to do was print fast. It quickly became apparent that the E3D V6 hotend and the anemic 3010 fans severely limited said goal. So I got myself a Dragon HF hotend, a 5020 blower and printed this print head. From the get go I had massive problems with retraction, even after calibrating pressure advance the retraction towers I tried in Orca Slicer where all stringy messes. I kinda got it under control by severely slowing the retraction speed to 25mm/s with a 0.4mm retraction distance with nozzle wipe.
But now I'm sometimes getting these weird stringing artifacts on prints. Not on every print and not on every part, it's just certain seams that get them. I'm currently printing with a 0.6mm CHT nozzle and a fresh roll of Elegoo PLA. Does anyone have any idea what could be the culprit? It ruined the finish on a few otherwise perfect prints.
I even tried out this print: this print since it has a lot of retractions, but of course that one turned out perfectly apart from a few tiny whisps.

you are viewing a single comment's thread
view the rest of the comments
[–] morbidcactus@lemmy.ca 2 points 10 months ago (1 children)

I actually had a hell of a time with petg with a 0.6mm cht on a dragon hf, ended up going back to a nozzle x because of it. I also found the bimetal cht nozzles really fragile, like 1.5 Nm torque from one of those slice preset wrenches and I'd still manage to have them shear off in the block after a few nozzle changes.

What did help was lowering the temps and being aggressive with the retraction speed (went up to 50mm/s if I recall), but even then the cht nozzles oozed a lot with petg, could have tuned a bit more but as I said I ended up going back to my other nozzles.

Kept the dragon though and actually swapped my mk3s over because I like that the block is fixed for nozzle changes and actually changed my voron to a dragon UHF that seems to be working well so far.

[–] Ramenator@lemmy.world 1 points 10 months ago* (last edited 10 months ago)

Yeah, I expected oozing and stringing with PETG, but not with PLA. For now I've switched back to the regular plated copper nozzle and don't have anymore problems. The maximum flow rate went down from 40mm²/s to 25mm²/s but I can print a benchy in half an hour, so it's still plenty fast