I prefer the DNA shotgun method. Load up a shell with gold covered in the DNA you want and fire it at a batch of seeds. If you're lucky, you get some that are just right.
But for my own hobby gardening, I like microdosing seeds with Oryzalin. Causes polyploidy and then you get some really nifty mutants with a whole bunch of extra DNA space to play in. And it's cheap, as it's sold in weed killer. Just don't drink it. Or rub it on yourself. Hooray genotoxic chemicals at the Home Depot.
Thinking about it, I have really odd hobbies. Anyone else mutate Arctic circle plants for fun?