Climbing

In Arthur's Pass, New Zealand

I'm a beginner climber and I got Evolv Shamans in my street size a few weeks ago since I read good reviews about them and I got them pretty cheap as they were in the discounted section of my local climbing shop, but only in that size. They've been great at allowing me to stand on small edges and get better height on my toes due to the thick rand, but they hurt like hell to wear, making the benefits I gain from using them somewhat moot, as I'm not able to climb and improve as much as I'd like to.

I've been wearing them around the house in addition to the gym in the hopes of breaking them in quicker (I've had to wear plastic bags on my feet to prevent blisters on my heels and toes from excessive friction) and I noticed they don't really seem to have broken in that much and still hurt my toes a lot (especially the tops of my big toes), so I'd like some recommendations for the next pair that I get.

I have Morton's toe/Greek feet and my feet are probably wider and less-arched than average. I'd like to get a more comfortable pair for long gym sessions, so I think I'd prefer lace-up shoes in the future. I've narrowed my choices down to the Scarpa Veloce L and the Ocún Advancer LU, both of which are lace-up, apparently suited for Greek feet, and are vegan. I'd appreciate some comparisons if people have experience with them, or if you have recommendations for other shoes that might suit my criteria better, please share them too!

https://www.hardestclimbs.com/bouldering/problem/la+r%C3%A9volutionnaire

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.world/post/14695902

NEWS: 9b First Ascent for Seb Bouin

Does anyone have any tips for keeping going even when you're finding it hard to get started climbing?

I'd very much appreciate any tips at all.

The traversey third pitch of Indian Summer (18), up at the Remarkables, Queenstown, New Zealand

The route is Book of Hate 5.13d. I don't know Amity Warme (my loss probably) nor the route - this was just such a great video I wanted to share it here. The climb is fantastic, and it's captured magnificently. Music stops just when it needs to, giving full exposure to her breathing and a nice windy background (or is that a road? whatever :) ). If you can spend the 9min, do it, otherwise skip roughly the first 4min to get some slow corner action leading up to the highlight.

Walked up the North Branch of the Routeburn and came back along the tops - Nereus, Somnus, Momus yesterday. Took a solid 14 hours, with nearly 3500m of vert.

Routeburn Carpark - North Col - Nereus - Somnus - Momus - Carkpark

Came back from a trip in Corsica where we climb the most mental slab I've ever put my hands on !

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/105748478

Epic!

I am a day late, but I can't find any mention of this monumental, once-in-a-lifetime event in the part of the fediverse I am connected to. Clearly this isn't ready for prime-time yet. Or real federated climbers just don't waste their time on the internet like I do :)

Anyway, I don't know why, but Tom and Pete just get me laughing and excited like crazy. And now that's combined with the beautiful sound of Adam grunting (spoiler alert: no power scream :( ) and confirming some O-grades. Feels like it's already Christmas.

Got a hole, yet again in my climbing shoes and need to buy some new ones before a climbing trip I'm going on next weekend so looking for some input. What's your favorite shoes, and why do you like them?

Adding to his impressive list of 9b and harder

https://www.hardestclimbs.com/sport/bouin