Ask Electronics

Why do you like it? Why did you choose it? Would you recommend it?

I'm looking for a recommendation on a high quality 2 or 3 meter USB-C /Thunderbolt cable used for data transfer and charging.

After yet another replacement Anker cable usb-c cable I’d really like to get cables that can last a few hundred cycles and I need a recommendation.

Are there any companies that make higher durability cables?

--Edit-- So far recommendations I have gotten are

• Samsung
• LCom
• cable matters
• Braided jackets
• Power delivery of 25w or greater
• Use magnetic disconnects

I have an UPS with two 12v 7ah lead batteries. If I want to change the batteries I would typically go with lead batteries but here's my question, can I use some portable mobile power banks to use it?

Because I have a 20000mah "INUI" lithium power bank that is rated for 12v at 1.5A, is it a good practice to buy several of these (since they are about 20 bucks) disassemble them and use them as ups batteries?

EDIT : clarifications

So, i'm thinking of a story and i need some tech info.

How risky is to de-solder an usb plug if the flash-drive contains important files? It would be relatively safe for someone capable, or the heat is way too risky for the chip/content?

Also there's any (MacGyver like) way to quickly access the file or reconnect the plug without a solder while only having access to office supplies?

I have a pet project I've been working on to modernize an electric organ console, and one of the final things needed are toggle switches. On a modern organ these are able to be manually toggled, or they can be flipped up/down programmatically using electromagnets (video). The ones purpose built for this are obscenely expensive but I can't find anything even remotely similar. Am I crazy for thinking this kind of switch are used in more things than just organs?

Hi all,

Do you have some recommendations for a soldering station that would meet my needs?

I've been into hobby electronics for a few years, doing mostly analog audio projects but recently got into repairing and repurposing broken electronics (Bluetooth earbuds, speakers, USB cables and such).

I've been using a cheap Parkside(LIDL)-rebranded "generic Chinese product" (I came across the exact same model on AliExpress, in different colors); which has served me well until now but has a few flaws that I can't be bothered with anymore. Mainly: -it takes ages to get hot. -the cable going from the station to the iron is super thick and stiff, which is annoying as hell...

I would like it to be the least expensive possible, while being good enough I'd be happy with it for the foreseeable future.

I have been looking at these:

Old tech, cheap tips (<1€)

Newer tech, "expensive" tips (8-10€)

And wondering how these "newer" types of iron compare to stations, what are the main drawbacks?

Thanks a lot in advance for any input, Please be gentle if you think I'm an idiot :)

Edit: changed the "Smolderin" in title to "soldering"

I've got a used riello ups recently and it was not working since the beginning. The UPS was switching to batteries most of the time, but sometimes it just don't switch to batteries and makes a continuous beep (riello manual tells that it's a UPS fault anything except an overload).

I left it 2 weeks without using it. But know it won't start at all. Don't have the materials to test components for now but what are your ideas? (Even when plugged in the wall it wouldn't start)

Maybe batteries or faulty ups

Thx

I haven't really been able to find much on this. I recognize the totem-pole and what that's for. Would love help understanding:

• What's the triangle?
• What's the rectangle immediately after?
• Why are there two outputs instead of one? A lecture I watched claimed this is common.

I've got a few projects on the list which will be battery powered. I'm thinking of using 18650s just because of how ubiquitous they are, but I know there's other options out there. Are they worth it?

• E-ink calendar
• Solder fume extractor
• Lora station
• Portable "trail camera"
• Home assistant remote controls Etc etc etc

So, I had some issues with installing the GPU in the case, and the GPU bottom (those metals things at the bottom) ended up scratching part of the motherboard. From what I can tell, there's a bunch of similar components all the way up, so I'd think there's redundancy, so I guess it's not that important. Here is a picture (I was told some people couldn't open postimg, both links have same image):

https://i.postimg.cc/7LBwkr3h/62e626.jpg

https://files.catbox.moe/62e626.jpg

PC boots fine into bios, fans work, stuff are recognized, mouse and keyboard also works, but I haven't really done much beyond that.

Motherboard is: MSI B650 Gaming Plus Wifi

It's located here, and on them, it is written K72 then vertically smaller K2 (the 2 has an underline), as you can see in the above image too:

https://i.postimg.cc/XJNcnppT/modelblock-gaming-pd.png

https://files.catbox.moe/7otcn6.png

I was told to ask here, and the best guess from what I've been told is that this is this:

Paralleling power metal-oxide semiconductor field-effect transistors (MOSFETs) is a common wayto reduce conduction losses and spread power dissipation over multiple devices to limit the maximum junction temperature.

Which could mean that the others could pick up the slack.

Should I get a new motherboard?

hiya!

I got a cheap LED strip with PSU, controller, and IR remote. I didn't look at it too much, figured it would be easy to stick it under my kitchen cabinets.

however, this thing blinks and fades and whatnot and I'm supposed to switch it over to constant light by repeatedly pressing the remote, which a) works shitty and also b) don't wanna do that. I just want to plug it into power and it lights up and that's the end of our interaction.

so, I opened up the PSU/controller and I'd like to locate the spots that give me +12V and GND and I can bypass the whole blinky fadey mess.

it's a single-sided PCB. the top three wires on the right are for the IR receiver, ignore 'em. the bottom 4 are R, G, B, 12 V, respectively. I'm shorting RGB as it's a white-only strip.

can you hazard a guess where I'm most likely to succeed?

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.ml/post/24328274

Hey I need your help.

Recently I bought a Riello NPW 2000 that output a "pseudo-sinusoidal" wave when running on battery the fact is that I read on the web that modern servers could have problems with it.
Mostly right, as I found that my server (poweredge t430) is not running good with it. When unplugging the power to test the UPS sometimes it make the server just power off and reboot (as said in the bios, turn on when power goes on again) or it put the ups in safety mode (continuous beep).
Tried disabling the PFC in IDRAC settings, as far I haven't noticed power off issues but only safety mode issues with the UPS... (So in fact the server power off, but will never go on battery)

In both cases the server is running fine on battery the issues are just happening when switching.

If anyone has an idea.. Thank you

After research I found that the server never turns off when disabling PFC but will eventually make the UPS goes into fault, I fought it was the fault of the PC that was putting the UPS in protection mode, but it was not the case as I tried to power a TV and it did the same thing.... So I'm good to buy another one...

EDIT : some clarifications & partly resolving the issues

It's not available anymore and even if it was, I don't really want to buy one from him. And I need about 15 anyway for the youth group activity. It's far more cost effective to order direct from pcb fab shop.

I’m working on driving a very finicky lcd. I have it working now with an FPGA dev kit. I had to use an FPGA because some of the timing requirements are in the tens of nanoseconds.

At the end of the day, I wrote a block for a one shot/continuous clock with a programmable duty cycle and initial delay. This block was repeated six times for the various clocks with their specific values.

Moving to the final product, this feels like overkill. In the past, I’ve managed to make this kind of thing work with a Rube Goldberg collection of on-board timer/counters on the microcontroller.

I’d like to avoid that mess this time around. If I can generate the clocks externally, I can have the host MCU send the data quickly using DMA.

An FPGA works great, but they’re expensive and there’s the issue of licensing for FPGA and and CPLD software.

I’ve seen this problem solved with a lookup table, but there aren’t a lot of cheap/small rom/ram options for what I’m trying to do.

Basically, what I’m asking is is there a component that can be easily programmed to generate a number of clocks, doesn’t need any costly software licensing, and comes in a very small package? (Like wlcsp)

Found metal weight inside

I wanted to learn more about electronics, and I found this https://www.open.edu/openlearn/science-maths-technology/an-introduction-electronics/content-section-0 to start from so I can have a grasp on theories first, and I want to try learning microcontrollers afterwards but I can't afford to buy any IRL atm, are there any softwares to simulate them to assist on learning without having the physical hardware? I'd be happy if anyone could give me any tips toward that, thank you if you read this far

So I accidentally put an open water bottle in my bag while my tablet was in there, LCD was unfortunately flooded, but I ordered a replacement screen and it arrived today. Though opening up the tablet I found water droplets throughout, so I removed every part meticulously to put in rice or something and noted any current corrosion I had to remove with a q tip.

My question is this. As soon as I opened it up I noticed the water very quickly evaporating. I actually can't see any more now. Anyone who does mobile device repairs, what do you think? Could I skip the deep-dry? I looked at all the components and none of them have any parts that could have trapped water that I missed and I don't really look forward to cleaning the entire thing of starch ( though I do just have silica beads but let's stay on topic)

Am I right to feel confident about the dryness of the components? Let me know!

I have a Snap Grip Luxe on the back of my Kindle Paperwhite Signature Edition, which has wireless Qi charging but is not magnetic. On phones, the Snap Grip allows for passthrough wireless charging, so when I mounted it, I held my Kindle up to a wireless charging stand until I found the spot where it started charging, marked the top of the back with some tape, and mounted it roughly where I thought the charging coil might be (though there's some uncertainty because I don't know exactly where the charging hardware is inside my stand). It doesn't work.

It's possible this feature just doesn't work with the Kindle, but I have a new Kindle arriving soon and will have another shot at this, so I was curious if there was some way I can precisely locate and mark where the charging coil is on the back of my new Kindle to at least eliminate that factor. Any ideas?

I've been wanting to experiment with Wireless Charging for a bit now, for which I need a qi standard Transmitter and a separate single Female USB C input that I can use for soldering.

I've been told both amazon and Ebay are overpriced when it comes to stuff like this, so what dedicated Websites would be best to buy this typa stuff in and around Europe/Germany

Thanks!

Hello Ask Electronics community, please help me identify the name of this connector.

For context, this is from a motor scooter: Yamaha Mio M3 125. This socket connects the ECU to the wiring harness.

I wish to know how to open this socket to access the rubber/silicone seal inside, and to know that first I need to identify the name of this connector.

So anyone know what is the name of this connector?

Something like "Superseal 24-pin" or so. Also, to clarify: I am not searching for replacement part for this connector. I only need to know the name.

Here are some more pictures of the connector (hover above the picture to see alt-text).

(None of the pictures are mine, I just copied them from the internet).

So i built a outdoor hoop antenna to replace my cheap and crapy walmart antenna. IDK if the pre-amp fried the 5g/LTE filter or it wad my diy antenna. Is it possible for a 5g/LTE filter to stop working and filter out every channel. I orderd a new filter to see if it is the problem. Here is the antenna tutorial I followed: https://youtu.be/Tg0JjeotXq4 And the 5g filter: https://a.co/d/gwpNo2g

I recently got a nice deal on a stereo microscope, and leapt at the chance. I've had a few projects in mind that would entail SMD soldering, and now all I need is a proper soldering station.

My current iron is pretty basic, but gets the job done for splicing wires and DIP work. Now I want something with temp control and a good supply of tips.

It seems like hobbyists are all talking about affordable Chinese T12 stations from brands like KSGER and Quecoo. There are just so many different models, it's hard to understand the features and differences. It also seems like there's a lot of "Reddit folk knowledge" where people just keep repeating what others have said. Eg: People say that some KSGER stations have no case grounding, but nobody says which models do or don't have the issue. All of them? Then people talk about the microcontrollers STM vs STC, but nobody says why it matters.

Back in my day, you could usually sip a few mA from a USB2 port without any trouble.

When I try that now, Windows pops up with a “device not recognized” error. I know you can draw up to 150mA before enumeration, but it looks like after some time, Windows will complain that you haven’t enumerated yet.

Is there an easy way to keep from getting this error without having to actually make the device smart?

I’m hoping for something dumb along the lines of USB-PD but facing the other direction. For the record, it has to work on a USB-A port, so USB-C hacks won’t work.

Hi, my 3d printer psu fan gave up the ghost, and I wanted to replace it. It was pretty noisy, so I thought about upgrading from a 30mm to an 80mm fan. I am designing the top case with mounting holes, and want some input on where to place the new fan. The original placement is the box with the red color. The green and blue box are some options I thought of for the new fan placement. Would placing it over the busier part of the pcb yield lower temps, or is that a bad idea? Does placement even matter for psu fans? The new fan has higher airflow, but lower static pressure than the original one, and the plan is for it to always spin at a low rpm and occasionally speed up when the psu detects a high temperature. The original config runs it completely fanless until the psu reaches 50c and only then does it send voltage to the fan header.