Photography

Hey there!

I'm looking for more places to read about photographers and their work. I'm interested in thoughtful writing about well-known or up-and-coming photographers. This could be interviews, discussions or essays, and it could be by the photographers themselves or by someone else.

I already enjoy American Suburb X and Nowhere Diary, and I'm looking for more in this vein.

I'd appreciate any links or suggestions :-)

Thanks!

Hello, I started photography during thanksgiving with a Canon EOS R10 with a RF-S18-45mm F4.5-6.3 IS STM kit lens. I tried to shoot some photos during the night but all my pictures came back extremely dark and grainy.

I've read that the R10 is a crop sensor camera, which is not the best for low light photography when compared to a full frame camera, but I also read that there really isn't much of a difference these days anyways.

How can I improve my night time photography pics to make them brighter and less grainy?

Is there a big difference in night photography performance when compared to a Full Frame camera?

Hi everyone, trying to find the specific name for this type of photography but can't get an exact result, the type of holding a photo up to a place to capture a then and now. Closest thing I found was "Re Photography" but it's not exactly what I'm after as its a digital then and now not one with a photo. Thanks !

https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTfEWnsij_khqB2k2YBS90_F59dm4ZZkLRf22fj1b_hS93zLQIu8gBplhZB6ICBXsqpKJY&usqp=CAU

So i have a new display that supports image p3 and 86% adobe rgb. I have always shot and edited in srgb, but the new display, when calibrated to their respective color spaces, looks more vibrant in adobe rgb. i can see more color (who whould've guessed). not more saturated, i just feel in the greens there is more detail.

Now i am wondering, if i should set my camera to shoot adobe rgb. Most of my work is posted online, or kept digitally for the most part. Occasionally i do print. On my macbook i set the integrated screen to dci p3 and did not notice a difference between how the images on instagram looked on my macbook or my phone.

Adobe rgb does have some advantages but i dont know if i should use it. could there be color differences between how i see the image on my adobe rgb screen and someones srgb screen? does instagram convert adobe rgb images into srgb automatically and how does adobe rgb affect websites and people viewing images on that website?

I just have so many questions but can't seem to find answers. thanks in advance

For personal photos, what do you all do with the originals (i.e. unedited) and imperfect photos?

In the summer I took a course on photography so I'm very new. My primary goal is to take pictures of my family.

Currently, I edit using Google Photos and I store all my pictures there, and the edits are stored as copies. I typically organise the edits into albums.

However, I'm left with the decision of what to do with the originals of the ones I did edit, and the ones I didn't - because there was something minor wrong with them (no eye contact, some slight blur, something or someone weird in the background or whatever.)

I can't bring myself to delete any of them, the voice in my head is "even if they're not perfect, who cares? you'll want to look at all of these anyway when you're old".. but if I don't come up with a plan or decide what to do with them soon, I know I'll create a big task later down the line of pruning through thousands, and likely paying for more cloud storage anyway.

I know if I store these locally (i.e. not the cloud) I can mitigate the factor of cost, but unless I store them all on a NAS with some reasonable RAID config and then a backup to the cloud, I won't feel comfortable doing it any other way. Storing them all on one external HDD is asking for trouble. At this point, "mitigating the cost" is out the window as I would have paid up front for a lot hardware, new disks over time as they die, and cloud storage (again) for backup.

As I type this, I'm starting to realise this is in fact the actual cost of photography. I guess I need to draw a line somewhere; if I don't want local hardware, then suck it up and only keep "the good ones" in Google Photos.

Hello everyone, I am a hobbyist photographer and have been given an opportunity to do a photo shoot (pro bono) at a charity school with students ranging from kindergarten to high-school. The "client" would like to have photos of the students at different moment of the day, in the classroom, at recess, at the canteen, etc... as well as some portraits.

It's basically a journalistic/documenting photo shoots, and the first assignment I ever got. I was wondering what kind of lenses you would pick for this type of job. Would you go with primes only, zoom only or a combination of prime+zoom?

I have a fuji xt5 with the xf 16mm f/2.8, xf 35mm f/1.4 and the xf 18-55mm kit lens. I also have some manual lense in 35mm and 50mm which I use on my "I don't care" days only. I have been considering for a longtime getting the xf 56mm f/1.2 WR, but I'm afraid of the double redundancy of that focal length in my set.

Thank you for your input!

Hello photographers! I am a private horse trainer and part of what I have been training the horses to do is specific things for photo shoots such as training them to look a certain direction on command. We expect to have people who know NOTHING about horses or how to control them to book photoshoots so I’m trying to dummy proof everything so I can control the horse from out of shot. Things have been going well but one of the things I will be training next is to use an object as a marker and train the horse to go to where it is on command. This will make things easier however whatever object I use will be in the shot and need to be edited out afterwards. What object and color would be easy to edit out? Some examples of what people generally use are cones, cut and colored cardboard, a square of carpet, a piece of interlocking foam flooring, etc. I would need to use a color other than green and brown/tan as the horse may not be able to see the marker if the ground is the same color. Suggestions appreciated!

Hi there. I posted in a group about a possible career transition and a photographer reached out to me about needing an assistant. I made sure they were legit. I posted that I have experience in customer services, office services, education services, childcare services, etc. And that I have a bachelor's degree in Child Development. They commented about working in a studio w/ newborns, children, families, and various types of different photoshoots w/ props and settings. I told them I have no experience in photography however I did love supporting creative jobs such as these and that I used to love backstage when I did theatre such as props, makeups, costumes, and stage settings. So that being said if everything goes right and I get the job offer I'm curious what it's like working as an assistant to a photographer w/ their own mini studio.

I’m looking for a cheap way to develop and scan 35mm film rolls. Is there anywhere that will do this for cheap (preferably under $10 a roll) and does not have to send back the negatives?

I don't get who wants them. Is it for magazines or something?

I attended a photography class and the teacher said photos must be shot with intention, what is the message we are trying to convey, what story are you telling? The class is taught by a former photo-journalist.

But sometimes I just want to make a nice picture? I don't have a story I want to tell. Or I just want to record something nice I saw while traveling. I can't imagine myself being creative enough to think of a narrative when I'm out taking photos on the street.

Do I need to take his advice and try my hardest to think of the intent behind every photo or is that too exhausting?

I always only include the best shots from every session, event and shoot. I always make this clear. I recently shot a small 1-2 hour event and there were a few group shots that didn’t make the cut and were not included. I had no way of knowing who was most important and this never came up during the event or email discussing the event and expectations either. We never explicitly determined through the booking process that all the group shots have to be included, just that the best shots from the event are to be included. I sent off the gallery and now she wants a full refund to make up for the few group shots she didn’t get. I offered a partial refund to cover the shots I may have missed or weren’t included since it’s been three weeks since the gallery had been sent and I no longer have the session on my drive to send her any extras. I don’t think a full refund would be fair since I still completed the gallery where she received over 133 edited images half of which are group shots and I still covered the event, helped prepare her by sending her a checklist, made sure expectations were clear through email and I even showed her those screenshots to remind her what the agreement was and she downloaded the photos already however she is still demanding a full refund despite my efforts to make the situation right. I’m a pretty experienced photographer and she mentioned that she really liked the photos and enjoyed working with me so I don’t think this is a quality and service issue although she did go on to say I was unprofessional when I didn’t give her exactly what she wanted in the end but offered other solutions that I felt would be fair for the both of us which was still being paid and compensated for my time but also compensating her for the photos that she didn’t receive if it meant a happy vs unhappy client since that was her only concern. How would you handle this or move forward? I’m not sure if this is a genuine complaint or she’s a scammer type client picking on a smaller business and trying to intimidate me into getting free work.

• more context: she also booked me again for maternity photos after the event and seeing the gallery. If the overall experience and quality was that awful I doubt she would have wanted to work with me again! I’m not sure how to proceed or if this client is worth the hassle and business if I were to give in to her demand.

Faulty 24-70 from eBay

Hi folks,

I’ve just bought (yesterday) a Nikon z6ii with a 24-70 f/4 kit Lens form eBay for just over £1200.

They both arrived yesterday in great cosmetic condition and the body only has around 12k clicks on the shutter.

I attached the lens to find out that it does not auto-focus (no such issue stated on the eBay listing). Just arrived home after taking it to my local camera shop to find that the Lens is at fault (not the body).

I’ve messaged the eBay seller who seems to be willing to work with me on this issue.

I don’t particularly want to send the entire kit back as the body is a steal for the price I got it but do I ask for a partial refund of the cost of a second hand Lens and offer to ship the Len’s back to the seller?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Good day folks. I’m doing modelling occasionally and I’ve won a few small beauty contests. I used to do tfp with people I’ve met at events, so it’s established safe people to work with. I’m being contacted by lots of random people they wanted to shoot tfp. If they looked and sound dodgy, I would just ignore. Example they’d say they would buy me clothes (barely a clothing) to use for the shoot. I wouldn’t talk to those people anymore. There are times where there are professional photographers who wanted to shoot with me and I was fine with this. With a modelling fee. They absolutely don’t like that. They list a long list of reason why they’re to be trusted etc. how do I tell this people to move along without hurting them and maybe a chance to work with them in the future? Since modelling world is quite small. Someone knows someone from your circle etc. work in the future means in modelling events etc, of course I’d like to still be in good terms with people. But I wouldn’t like to shoot outside , one to one, if it’s not a proper contract, specially with a stranger. Thanks

I recently shot on a fresh roll of film using my Olympus OM-1, everything seemed to be working until I rolled up the film. The film came out a little bit (I'm aware any of those photos are ruined now) and it was completely blank. it looked the same as if I didn't use it. I've tried looking it up but the answers vary from it doesn't show up until developed to your camera is broken. It didn't seem to be broken, everything worked from the shutter to the timer. But it was second hand so it may have been broken? How do I know for sure my film has been used?

Hey,

both pictures were shot with 70mm focal length.

photo

Left one with Canon 70-200 2.8, right one with Canon 24-70 2.8.

Object is deleted because of commercial work but I think you see the point.

Distance from camera to object is 1,2m and was not moved between the shots and the difference in field of view is surprisingly massive for me.

I think its because the 70-200 is longer so the focal point inside the lens is closer to the object (maybe by roughly 10cm?) but the difference is much bigger than I expected it to be.

The more far away I go with the camera the smaller the effect should become.

TIL:

70mm is not 70mm.

Hello! I am a novice 3d modeler and use orthographic images to recreate objects in blender. I'm looking to start creating my own orthographic images so that i can expand the number of things i can model, as it is often the case that these images do not already exist for the things i want to make. I currently know nothing about photography and was wondering if some one here could point me into the right direction so that i may continue my work. The things i want to model tend to be around 150mm in size though can be as large as 300mm. They can be made smaller by dividing the objects into its constituent parts then all i would have to do is take photos of the individual parts instead of the whole object.

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Anyways on to the point of this post. Could some one recommend a camera that could achieve taking orthographic photos of items this size. Also because I know nothing about photography is there something i should know if i am attempting to make orthographic images.

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Hey guys,

Our team made our photoshoot together by ourselves and we didn’t have the chance to pick our favourite images before leaving the venue.

Now we are thinking what the most optimal way for picking them would be - we can’t really use a uniform edit and editing all would be overkill.

Do we just export them in a drive and let them everyone pick their favouritrs? There has to be a better way to this.

How would you guys proceed?

Backstory: I purchased $2000+ worth of gear from Keh on October 19th, 2023. Since the gear I purchased was quite old, I added a 4 year extended warranty that cost almost $300 on top of the gear purchase. Almost immediately after purchase, I changed my mind and canceled the order. Keh was very responsive and helpful throughout the cancellation, and returned my money quickly. All except for the extended warranty purchase, which they said would be automatically returned by the warranty company (I think it's Extend). Well, it's now 12-1-2023 and the warranty money still has not been returned. I emailed Keh for a second time on 11-13-2023 asking if they had a contact so I could get in touch with the extended warranty company. I got their "We've received your message and will respond within 24 hours" automated response, but no one ever responded. This was strange since their customer service has always been so good in the past. In the past they had responded in a matter of hours, and even sometimes a matter of minutes. Since I didn't get a response for 3 weeks on the last email, I once again emailed Keh customer support on 10-29-23 asking the same thing (looking for contact info for the extended warranty company) and once again I got the "We've received your message and will respond within 24 hours" automated response, but once again no one responded within 24 hours. I think at this point it's safe to say Keh has ghosted me. I did send in a generic contact form inquiry to Extend hoping to get any help, but I doubt that will go anywhere.

Has anyone ever gone through anything like this before? If so, how did you get your extended warranty refund?

I'm sitting on approximately 1000 scanned photos. Most are about 20-30yrs old so in pretty good condition. A couple are much older.

These are the issues that I would like to fix in order of prevalence in the set:

1. Photo paper texture makes it look like it is a scan vs a photo
2. Adjustments for brightness/contrast/color etc
3. Photos are blurry or out of focus
4. Photo is damaged (torn, wrinkled, etc)
5. Photo is really old

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I'd like to batch process as much as possible. Not exactly sure how to do #1, #2 can be done by alot of software with their "auto adjust" settings. I'm thinking maybe Irfanview? or Photoshop? Not sure what other tools there are.

There are some machine learning or neural networks models out there that can fix #3-5 and maybe #1-2. However many are focus on the face and some go way too far and basically replace the face so it looks super fake. Just looking through gitlab there are alot of option. Then there are all the random "AI" websites. Is there a comparison somewhere?

After I'm done batch processing, is there an easy way to compare original with new photo? The scans are all TIF files. I figure I'll save the edited ones as PNG with the same base name.

I'd appreciate any recommendations.

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I shot my first live show the other day and OH BOY did those pictures turn out awful. Kinda looking for any advice you got that goes with shooting live music. The show was for a friend of mine's band and I'm shooting another this weekend. There were a few other photographers there and they all had this special flash tower thingy, it looked important, but i honestly dont know why it would be better than the built in flash. Any advice would be appreciated

Anyone here use something like this?

https://www.tourboxtech.com/en/photo-editing.html

Their ad keeps popping up on my fb feed and it's really tempting. I wanna know if it's worth the purchase or should I go DIY?

TIA for the comments.