Photography

Canon EOS R50: Does the camera have GPS and can it record the location pictures were taken? I have GPS in my phone can the camera use that? I see the camera has WiFi - so does the phone perhaps that can transfer the location at the time a picture is taken.

I'm wondering if anyone knows of a camera still being produced similar to the Canon G1X MkIII. I've been using a 5D MkIII for years but want something smaller for backpacking that still packs a great quality sensor, glass, and full featured manual mode with RAW format. It doesn't have to be Canon either. Thanks

Edit: probably an APS-C size sensor or larger

I'm on vacation in paris, so I thought why not take some photos. Also here's my obligatory eiffel tower pic:

Both are shot on my phone in RAW and then edited in lightroom mobile

I've been using flickr on and off for 20 years now, so my flickr time stream gives me a nice snapshot of how my photography has changed and improved over the years.

In theory, I've got all of my old photos available, but on flickr, the ones I posted are the ones I considered my best at the time. So my flickr timestream gives me an perspective on my photography that the 10's of thousands of photos in my home collection does not.

It's been really interesting going back through my old photos and seeing the change first hand...

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Noctilucent_cloud

Shot with a Sony a6000 with a Sigma 30mm prime lens

A few days ago, I got myself a Canon EOS 700D DSLR camera along with a Canon EFS 18-55mm lens for about $160. Until now, I've only ever used point-and-shoots, like my smartphone or my "Kodak" Pixpro AZ401.

So, it's basically the first time I get to properly play around with the exposure triangle and all that good, manual stuff. I already love this camera, because despite the low cost, you can get great shots in auto mode out of the box, but it's also very versatile in professional photography. All that, and I still haven't even gotten into editing raw photos; this is just the JPG!

This particular photo of a garden shed was shot with:

ISO: 6400
Exposure: 1/395s
Aperture: f/14
Focal length: 46mm
Resolution: 5184x3456

From what I've heard, those settings aren't ideal, especially the high ISO for that much light. Does anybody have some general tips for me or resources to check out?

By the way, I also just installed Magic Lantern. That's some great stuff. Oh, and also - if anyone has a good way to connect it as a webcam on Linux, that's also very welcome since EOS Utility doesn't work and Gphoto2 is very low-res. The first thing I didn't get properly running on Linux!

Shot on 110 format Lomo Tiger 200 with a little Minolta Pocket Autopak 460TX.

I have a Canon EOS R50, a mirrorless camera, which also seems shutterless - If I take pictures of, for example, an airplane with a spinning propeller, will I still get that "strange rubber propeller" effect? 1) the camera may have a shutter and I just don't recognize it or 2) the sensor is read in such a way as to produce the effect.

Some years ago, I saw a neat photo collage centered around power lines by some artist, and thought it was a neat idea. Here's my attempt at making one using photos I've taken on my phone throughout the years. This was a project i did a while ago, and thought you might appreciate seeing, even if it's a bit jank in some spots. I wanted to share the before photo of the power lines, but can't find the original DNG file, nor the Photoshop project file. ~~I'll go for a walk to find the original spot i took the image at as proof :)~~

Found the rough spot I took the base picture in. Yes, I did remove the 2nd tower in the edit

If you look closely, he's actually going after a fly.

Fujifilm XT-5, Sigma 600mm Mirror f 8 / ISO 600 / 1/500 s

Mount Pleasant, IA Fujifilm X-T5 Fujinon 16-80:4 f 5.6 / ISO 225 / 30 s 720 nm infrared filter

Most of my photography has been of relatively stationary subjects, where I just use single-servo AF and either focus & recompose or move the single focus point to where in the frame I want the subject, or largely-individual sports like triathlon. But I've struggled getting sharp shots in team sports photography with a large number of moving people in frame.

If I try using continuous autofocus, it often focuses on the wrong subject or the background or seemingly nothing at all. If I try falling back on the techniques that work in other contexts, I usually just can't get the shot off at the right time.

I don't really understand the different autofocus options on my camera. I was mostly using what it calls "3D", but I also briefly tried "group-area". I don't really understand how group-area differs from d9 or even 3D. And my camera's manual doesn't clear things up for me. I spent a little while in manual autofocus with a fairly closed aperture, by using autofocus and then switching to manual and leaving it untouched; but this only worked when play stayed roughly the same distance from the camera for a while, so didn't really scale well.

Separate from the focus question, I spent the afternoon shooting at 1/1600. I'm not completely sure if this is fast enough, and maybe some of the blur in my photos is actually better explained by camera shake (shooting at 200 mm on a 1.5x crop sensor) or movement of the subjects. I suspect it's probably not relevant, but I thought I'd mention it just in case.

What's the best advice for how to get sharp shots in team sports photography?

(Included photo is a SOOC jpeg of a set play on the opposite side of the field from where I was...a situation that minimised my chance of focus problems.)