ErgoMechKeyboards
Ergonomic, split and other weird keyboards
Rules
Keep it ergo
Posts must be of/about keyboards that have a clear delineation between the left and right halves of the keyboard, column stagger, or both. This includes one-handed (one half doesn't exist, what clearer delineation is that!?)
i.e. no regular non-split¹ row-stagger and no non-split¹ ortholinear²
¹ split meaning a separation of the halves, whether fixed in place or entirely separate, both are fine.
² ortholinear meaning keys layed out in a grid
No Spam
No excessive posting/"shilling" for commercial purposes. Vendors are permitted to promote their products/services but keep it to a minimum and use the [vendor] flair. Posts that appear to be marketing without being transparent about it will be removed.
No Buy/Sell/Trade
This subreddit is not a marketplace, please post on r/mechmarket or other relevant marketplace.
Some useful links
- EMK wiki
- Split keyboard compare tool
- Compare keycap profiles Looking for another set of keycaps - check this site to compare the different keycap profiles https://www.keycaps.info/
- Keymap database A database with all kinds of keymap layouts - some of them fits ergo keyboards - get inspired https://keymapdb.com/
view the rest of the comments
Thanks for the input. I'll definitely spray paint the SLA parts. Not sure if spray painted keycaps will feel more "slippery" but I'll test first with some of them.
Good point with the TPU. I'm not sure what's available, but probably Ninjaflex (so 85A?)
You could SLA print a key cap to make a silicone mold then use something like Epoxy to make the final key cap.
Good point! I've been considering to print a TPU "sock" of some kind to put on top of a FDM/SLA printed keycap to mimic a silicone (or silicone-like) keycaps, just to see what it feels like. Maybe it's better to make a mold to try other materials too!
Definitely! Make a clean print. You can sand it, fill holes, and sculpt it perfectly before putting your shape in the silicone mold.
I've been printing sculpted palm rest prototypes in ninjaflex, because i had some on hand, but if i were you I'd buy ninjatek's Chinchilla. 75A and tested for skin compatibility.
i think its a reasonable idea, the TPU seals in air so its like a pool inflatable. TPU likes lower layer heights and you can get away with 5% infill but any less and the top surface will have holes in it and loose that pillowy feel. might need to go higher for a smoother surface. I recommend a non-crossing infill (otherwise you get blobs on the nozzle that will ruin your surface feel) and one that alternates directions, rather than stacking lines, so that the infill has more give. i tried gyroid at first, but 3D honeycomb was noticably softer because it alternates.
also, avoid sharp edges and corners in your design and slope the sides, don't have them vertical. this will also increase the softness
Oooh very interesting insights. I'll try to print a palm rest with your advice!
I've been printing sculpted palm rest prototypes in ninjaflex, because i had some on hand, but if i were you I'd buy ninjatek's Chinchilla. 75A and tested for skin compatibility.
i think its a reasonable idea, the TPU seals in air so its like a pool inflatable. TPU likes lower layer heights and you can get away with 5% infill but any less and the top surface will have holes in it and lose that pillowy feel. might need to go higher for a smoother surface. I recommend a non-crossing infill (otherwise you get blobs on the nozzle that will ruin your surface feel) and one that alternates directions, rather than stacking lines, so that the infill has more give. i tried gyroid at first, but 3D honeycomb was noticably softer because it alternates.