[-] JoShmoe@lemmy.world 2 points 1 week ago

I'm currently trying to solve some seam artifacts. I assumed retraction has something to do with it.

[-] JoShmoe@lemmy.world 2 points 1 week ago

The print is so small and I literally cannot see the results. I can't even photograph it clear enough with my camera phone.

[-] JoShmoe@lemmy.world 4 points 1 week ago

I must have done something wrong because the whole tower looks pretty much the same except for a clear overextrusion around the middle on one side. The rest have really thin barely visible strings that don't go very far.

20
Retraction Test (lemmy.world)
submitted 1 week ago* (last edited 1 week ago) by JoShmoe@lemmy.world to c/3dprinting@lemmy.world

I read through the Orca Slicer manual on github, but I don't understand how the retraction test works. I have no idea how I'm suppose to distinguish the results. Would anyone like to explain in layman's terms what it is I'm looking for?

[-] JoShmoe@lemmy.world 1 points 2 weeks ago

I'm not really concerned about my former issue. I hadn't yet touched the calibration settings of my printer. They made a significant difference. I got a completely different issue now which I'm certain is the big one that nobody has a set answer for.

[-] JoShmoe@lemmy.world 2 points 2 weeks ago

Yeah just the residue, no visible pieces of tape. Sorry for the late response.

[-] JoShmoe@lemmy.world 2 points 1 month ago

Glad to know. I wasn't aware of dead zones unil now. I'll have to research that.

[-] JoShmoe@lemmy.world 3 points 1 month ago

I admit I tried using every gram. Still I found some of the tape residue on the inside of the spool. Thanks for the advice.

13

Is it possible for the leftover residue, of tape on a spool to be scraped into the feed? As the filament drags over the edges of the spool?

[-] JoShmoe@lemmy.world 1 points 1 month ago

Yeah I haven't heard of it. Thanks for the info. Not sure if that would solve my problem though.

[-] JoShmoe@lemmy.world 2 points 1 month ago

There's so many advantages to making your own. No wait time, and custom pieces. Only the connections are needed.

[-] JoShmoe@lemmy.world 2 points 1 month ago

I had assumed they were referring to pouring and not a resin printer. Using a mold is definitely a full proof approach.

[-] JoShmoe@lemmy.world 3 points 3 months ago

You might be right about that. Still being able to print at that quality or near it, would look good.

[-] JoShmoe@lemmy.world 4 points 3 months ago

Yeah I hadn't thought about getting the smaller bits off the plate.

17
submitted 3 months ago by JoShmoe@lemmy.world to c/3dprinting@lemmy.world

I am using OrcaSlicer/BambuStudio with the P1P. Also, the hotend currently has hardened steel gears and a 0.8mm nozzle.

Am I forced to print the lego pieces slowly? Is there a setting or function that I can tweak to slow down my printer when it reaches the tiny circular geometry?

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JoShmoe

joined 3 months ago