For me my mind will drift off and I won't be able to stay focussed on completing repetitive tasks.
As a result thoughts of failure, stress, frustration, distraction etc will kick in and I will actively start avoiding it and sabotaging completing it until the last minute.
It only makes sense for me to try and avoid that scenario so I would say yes I have a fear of repetitive boring work/tasks but I don't think its a phobia in the strict sense.
I would add being a few steps ahead of most others in the group, project etc because of all the over thinking you've done instead of sleeping or completing other things.
Im already in my mid 40's. For me it helps to have a solid maximum cap of 4 things to juggle at a time. 2 is good 3 is great, 4 is OK but only 1 or more than 4 is looking for trouble.
Its a balancing act so if you are only upping the temperature to get higher flow but not the speeds to use that higher flow then there will be some issues. Each filament also has different temperature and flow characteristics so just because the new filament works with the current settings doesn't mean the old filament was junk.
Knowing how lazy people are I'm betting a lot of the AI's calls are implemented. Only the really out there ones will get dropped.
The volcano was made for high volume prints and has a bigger melt zone. Ideally it's best for bigger nozzles, high layer hights and faster printing.
If you want to print small and detail a normal e3d or other hotend gives you better control. For smaller characters you can use a standard hotend with a 0.3mm nozzle and switch on arachnid or similar in your slicer. That will give you pretty good results provided your cooling is good.
For calibration its best to watch a few videos as its a lot to discuss over a post like this. But you are looking to do e-steps, flow-rate, temperature tower and retraction. Also know that this may change when you change the filament or speed you are printing at so try and keep things as consistent as possible.
We are all waiting. Currently a claim has been made and some other claims that it could work both from modeling and replicating the process.
We are waiting for other labs to do proper peer reviews and verify the results. That still won't mean it does what we hope it does just that the results are the same as what was found in the original claim.
So still a long way away from knowing what is actually possible.
There are some plugins you can try in octoprint.
Personally I would probably install cura engine or PrusaSlicer on the pi SSH in and use the CLI to slice the stl and upload the gcode. You can probably write a script that monitors a folder and runs a script to do it all when a stl is dropped as well.
Most brands should work fine. Same with hairspray.
I've been using glass print surfaces and glue stick for 10+ years. I just wash off the glass with warm water every 2-3 prints otherwise just add a new layer of glue stick before printing. I'm going to try a G10 print surface next as I finally found some in my country.
I've used https://sequencediagram.org quite a bit as well. Its a text based sequence diagram generator and its been handy over the years.
Planaria have triangular heads like in the link you posted, I agree with the others that OP's PIC is a leach.
Or you could just use all of the space for a sodium battery and fully charge it as it won't need long term storage in that state.