this post was submitted on 09 Aug 2024
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Asklemmy
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Me who is 51, active boarder (skate, snow, surf, downhill) since the mid eighties, and has never broken a bone, reading this:
I miss r/neverbrokeabone
Is it possible to break a bone surfing? I always assumed the water just catches you.
Absolutely. You can break your back or snap your neck. What causes a good surf break is a deep sea swell suddenly hitting a shallow. The best breaks tend to happen either over reefs or if the shore has a steep incline (see not Florida). If you are surfing over reefs or rocky bottom, the base of the wave might only be inches deep while the crest is feet tall with a lot of weight and power. One of the most dangerous wipeouts is when you are late and the lip of the wave flips you over, you fall on the rocks, and then a literal building heigh mountain of water lands on you smacking you into the rock, grinding into it, tumbling around into it and, for shits and giggles, not letting you come up for air.
PS: The break for this Olympics was absolutely fucking bonkers.
My dad cracked three ribs while surfing in his 20s. He caught a wave much larger than normal, fell off his board near the top and landed flat on his back.
Didn't you just win a medal for GB?
If you meant for going bald, then yes.
https://www.bbc.co.uk/sport/olympics/videos/c624remryd0o
That made my month. Thank you for sharing!
keep winning those medals, man!