3DPrinting
3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices.
The r/functionalprint community is now located at: !functionalprint@kbin.social or !functionalprint@fedia.io
There are CAD communities available at: !cad@lemmy.world or !freecad@lemmy.ml
Rules
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No bigotry - including racism, sexism, ableism, homophobia, transphobia, or xenophobia. Code of Conduct.
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Be respectful, especially when disagreeing. Everyone should feel welcome here.
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No porn (NSFW prints are acceptable but must be marked NSFW)
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No Ads / Spamming / Guerrilla Marketing
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Do not create links to reddit
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If you see an issue please flag it
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No guns
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No injury gore posts
If you need an easy way to host pictures, https://catbox.moe may be an option. Be ethical about what you post and donate if you are able or use this a lot. It is just an individual hosting content, not a company. The image embedding syntax for Lemmy is 
Moderation policy: Light, mostly invisible
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I'm starting out with 0% first. However, I wonder if it will break my hardware as a device melting plastic at 245 C should have some cooling system or it will burn up right?
typically the fan cooling the heatbreak and extruder stays on even with the "extruder" aka part cooler fan turned off
As the other person stated, the hotend has two fans. One for part cooling and one to cool the extruder itself. The latter is usually controlled by the printer with no way for you to change it (apart from maybe rebuilding your own firmware) so you will be good to go running at 0%. The issue with this is that some part designs need the plastic to be cooled quickly for things like bridging, which is where you'll run into issues having the part cooling fan turned off. That probably won't be an issue when printing a box though.