this post was submitted on 19 Jul 2025
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https://imgur.com/a/oXQJArS I’m hoping you guys can help me figure this out. I have an ender 3 pro, running on marlin firmware. Every time I try to print something one of the corners will lift up like that and ruin the entire print. I installed a crtouch to help with leveling, installed upgraded metal bed wheels to help it not fall out of level. Even tried a glass bed with glue and it still does the same thing. I used a filament dryer and have a heat enclosure. I’m starting to run out of ideas on how to fix this. Any suggestions? The pic is how it starts and that was just a brim since I used to always use a raft and thought I should try that instead.

Edit/update: after spending the better part of a week just troubleshooting different suggestions I have found what I think was the main culprit. The filament I was using seems to be of really poor quality. I switched back to a glass bed with glue and could get the hatchbox yellow I had left over to stick really well after I dried it out, when I tried to dry out the black I was using and switch back to it, it immediately pulled away after the 2nd layer.

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[–] Silfeed@fedia.io 2 points 3 weeks ago (10 children)
[–] anguo@piefed.ca 2 points 3 weeks ago (3 children)

This really doesn't look flat enough for a brim. Is your nozzle close enough to the bed?

[–] Silfeed@fedia.io 1 points 3 weeks ago (2 children)

I did level it using paper and using the crtouch. I’m not sure how I could get it any closer

[–] fhein@lemmy.world 1 points 3 weeks ago* (last edited 3 weeks ago)

Paper levelling is not an exact method, you might need to manually adjust the Z offset depending on how the first layer looks. It's also something you generally don't need to do if you have a probe like crtouch, as it will be used to ensure that the nozzle is at a consistent distance from the bed everywhere, and the Z offset will decide how big that distance should be. Just be careful when adjusting the Z offset so you don't end up ramming the nozzle into the bed, make small adjustments. If you put a lamp behind the printer you can visually check if the nozzle touches the bed, e.g. if you manually move the nozzle to 0.2mm height after adjusting Z offset, can be good to do a manual check before starting a full print.

Unfortunately your photos are too blurry to give feedback, but if you want to you could try this: Print only the first layer for something simple and stop the print. Get a couple of strong lamps and put them next to your printer. Move the camera as close to the print as it can focus, could be around 20cm for a phone camera. Steady the camera against something solid, for example a stack of books.

If you want to keep trying to level on your own, perhaps this infographic could help. SuperSlicer has a built in calibration wizard which might also be useful.

And some general questions which might help troubleshooting your issue:

  • What kind of glue did you use? AFAIK it should have high PVA content, otherwise it might not do much.
  • How fast are you printing? Both first layer and rest of print. Printing too fast can lead to warping.
  • What nozzle size? Larger nozzles requires can require even slower speeds to avoid exceeding the hotend's melting capacity.
  • Have you modified flow rate multiplier (slicer setting) or e-steps (printer firmware setting)?
[–] anguo@piefed.ca 1 points 3 weeks ago

Its honestly really hard to tell with this picture. If you send a better-lit picture of a brim using a lighter-colored filament, we might be able to provide better help!

But something definitely looks off. It looks very thick and very uneven to me, but I also have no real sense of scale with this picture.

In any case, if this is your brim, the mouse ears and other similar proposed solutions won't change anything.

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