I got this when he sold his house to move to an assisted living facility. It's just been sitting in my garage for a couple years. Busy with the kid and all that. Well, we just got a little child trailer, and I didn't want to pull it with my mountain bike so figured it would be a good time to clean this guy up. New tires and tubes. Cleaned and lubed. Waxed. I thought it was trying hard to look like an old Schwinn, so I thought some nice shiny fenders would help out with that.

I have so many memories of going on rides with him, and of him taking it camping. I always thought it was a nice looking bike. I'll have to show him a picture of it all cleaned up next time I see him, I don't think he's ridden it in at least a decade.

Next on the agenda is new brake pads, and some retro lights. Any other suggestions? Maybe a white saddle seat, or different handlebars? I'm pretty sure its only value is sentimental, so the best suggestions are cheap suggestions. Thanks!

I can't stand the SpaceMouse Pro. They ruined it! Why would they swap the nice tactile buttons for stupid gummy membrane buttons? And why coat the whole thing in nasty soft touch coating that is going to turn to goo? We peaked with the previous generation of space balls.

Since I've been working from home though, it has gotten quite annoying to unplug my SpaceExplorer and take it back and forth to the office. It would be so nice to have one of those fancy new wireless ones. But that's not happening, since they ruined it.

So, I added USB-C to mine, instead. Now, I'll just have a cable at the office, and a cable at home and just take the unit itself back and forth. I can even leave a USB-C to USB-C cord in my case, in case I need to use it with my laptop away from my docks! If anyone is interested, I can share the STL for the little breakout board mounting piece I made.

I tried just about every suggestion here, but still couldn't get an airtight print. This is transparent PLA. I'm going to play with my speeds and overlap to try to get it clearer, but it was dimensionally accurate and completely sealed the first try.

Don't look too carefully at the barrel, it's just a hollow test one. I was able to eyedropper fill and test the grip section with it, but the OD is wrong, and there's no real filling mechanism in it. That's phase 2 of this project!

Watch somebody post their Nuon collection now.

I have a fondness for the Game.Com. Most of the games are terrible, the screen is terrible, it's slow, and they try their hardest to just self-destruct. Mine is an amalgamation of 3 broken ones.

Here's an imgur link to my reviews of every game (except the elusive Wheel of Fortune 2), if you're interested.

It started as a eBay Frankenwatch. Unfortunately, and obviously, the 6309 in it was useless. Also, it was completely the wrong type of crystal, just ground to fit. So, it got one of my spare 7S26's. It took a custom spacer to fit, and I had to grind a larger bevel on the rotor to fit it in the caseback. Hands and dial are Yobokies.

Edit: also, it came with no gaskets, even on the crown. So, it got a whole new set.

I found this, of course, at an antique store. The celluloid of the cap and blind cap are gray/silver and black, and the barrel is gray/silver and clear. The nib is terrible, and after this pic I swapped it for a FPR flex. There is no branding anywhere, and I'd really love to know who made it so I could find some of their other pens. In my experience, cheap pens typically use lever fillers. So, this is an unusual one for me.

I love the materials used in old Wearever pens. They had some absolutely beautiful celluloid. And if you're into restoration, you can find them very cheap in varying stayes of disrepair at most antique stores.

I bought this set for around $10. The hardware was completely tarnished, the celluloid scratched and hazy, nib missing, and the barrel and cap were cracked.

I solvent welded the cracks, used all three levels of Novus polish, then buffed with jewelers rouge. I have a tiny Jinhao nib in there currently, it's nicer than most Wearever nibs I've used. And, of course a new sac.

I'm pretty new to PETG, and have been really struggling with it compared to PLA. My latest print of this part is dimensionally accurate, but I need it to be air tight. It is very much not at the moment.

I have a Flashforge Adventurer 3, so the hot end and nozzle are one interchangeable unit. My higher temp nozzle is 0.6mm. My 0.3mm is only capable of 240. My last print was 0.2mm layers, with the 0.6mm nozzle at 245C. I used 15% overlap on my walls, and in order to keep my nice dimensions I had my cooling fan on.

Anybody have any advice on how to improve the seal? I'm tempted to try more overlap, with random start locations per layer. Do you think if I run it hotter I can get the layers a little thinner? Any advice would be appreciated.

Kicking off my appreciation of this new community with my Sheaffer's collection. I absolutely love the Snorkel. It's a little bit of a pain to work on, but so cool and easy to use.

My faves here are the blue Statesman and the red vein Balance. Not pictured are any of my modern Sheaffer's, or later cartridge based student pens.

Maybe I'll post my Wearevers soon. Such cheap pens, but they had lovely celluloid.