Extrasvhx9he

Well shooting my shot here since no else had this problem online and tech support still hasn't replied to my request in 4 days now. Anyways I was trying to update my system, an ancel fx2000, continued to "check for new version" and boom a power failure because of a downed power line somewhere. I go to boot it and originally got a message relating to "DOWNLOAD.BIN" or something similar. I was and still able to access the contents of the SD card via my laptop's SD card reader and deleted, not before copying over to my desktop, both Download.bin and ex_download.bin to see if that fixes. It got rid of the original message but now displays "Failed to verify EX_DOWNLOAD.BIN." Anyone have a solution on what to remove from the contents of the SD card or even a way to just get a fresh copy of it's contents in case I need to reformat it? I'm grasping at straws here and appreciate any help.

TLDR: Struggling with an Ancel FX2000 after a power failure during an update. I deleted (still have a copy) "Download.bin" and "ex_download.bin," which resolved one error but caused a new one: "Failed to verify EX_DOWNLOAD.BIN." I need help fixing the SD card or obtaining a fresh copy of its contents since I haven't received a tech support response.

Update in case you're in a similar situation: SD card ended up dead, brought a new one for 6$, reformatted it to fat and ran the upgrade software, BOOM

Pretty sure something screwy was happening on YouTube's end. Had a captcha and didn't let me solve it (can't recall the error code) ended up turning off my router for 30mins to get a new IP (compared both the old and new one) and added a VPN to my router for good measure and it seems to be working, not sure for how long though. Seems other people also had this happen so just wanted to post my findings here just in case anyone else is having this.

Edit: wasn't on a VPN originally. I added one to my router after getting a new IP

I always wondered this since I noticed that a lot of cars always have at least some damage to their pinch weld jack points, usually from hydraulic jacks, lack of adapters, or dropping the car onto jack stands hard. I get it not everyone has the right equipment or experience but it also seems like a poor and cheap design from the manufacturers. Why hasn't there been a method or aftermarket product that kinda bulks up the pinch welds. Hell I don't think I ever seen someone even weld or bolt on some steel to kind of guard the pinch welds from bending. Is there a reason for that, like structurally? Why are those hockey puck looking adapters the norm, just because its easier?

Tldr: Many vehicles suffer damage to their pinch weld jacking points from improper use of jacks, prompting the question of why there isn't a robust aftermarket solution or protective design from manufacturers to prevent this issue, besides those hockey puck looking adapters?

Hope this is okay to post here but I noticed some problems coming from what I assume is the ECM of my car overheating, speed gauge going crazy, engine stalling/shutting down but acting normal after a few minutes to cool down and weirder part no error codes. So I looked under the hood and noticed it only relies on a heatsink and the position is close to the engine itself (about 1 foot away), nothing connected to the radiator and I doubt any good airflow is getting to it. Pair that with the 113°F weather I'm experiencing everyday, I can see why it'll overheat and shutdown to protect itself. I never opened one before so I'm a bit worried about doing that but I'm sure there's some kind of thermal interface that can be changed. Doubt that will address the main issue though, so I'm also thinking heat shield and if i can fit it even a PC fan. I'm open to suggestions on other ideas though

So TLDR: I'm wondering if you guys have any ideas on how to improve the temperature of the ECM located near an engine in scorching desert heat?

Edit: Thinking the issue might be a faulty TCM instead (kind of a pain with no error codes) still will improve the thermals of the ECM since its kinda a shit design. The duct and heat shield might be a better long term idea so thank you all who helped.

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.today/post/9250689

How do I test cast iron cookware for lead

So I found a griddle that was in pretty bad shape seasoning wise so I stripped it and noticed a small shiny area which worried me about lead. I ordered some lead tests that stated they were for metal (no specifics) and after doing the tests it came back positive. But this got me wondering if iron reacts with sodium rhodizonate, the main ingredient in these lead tests, to give false positives and load and behold it does. I confirmed this with another cast iron cookware that I know 100% never touched lead. So my question is how the hell do I test this? Everyone keeps recommending the same sodium rhodizonate lead test swabs just with different brand names.

Tldr: After stripping a griddle and finding a shiny spot, I tested it for lead and it came back positive, leading to concerns about the reaction between iron and sodium rhodizonate. The question is how to accurately test for lead contamination in the griddle without potential false positives from the test method recommended by others?

Edit: wanted to add some more info. I did experiment with the test themselves to see how reliable they were and they passed it so I don't suspect its the test themselves but the chemical reaction between iron and the sodium rhodizonate

So I found a griddle that was in pretty bad shape seasoning wise so I stripped it and noticed a small shiny area which worried me about lead. I ordered some lead tests that stated they were for metal (no specifics) and after doing the tests it came back positive. But this got me wondering if iron reacts with sodium rhodizonate, the main ingredient in these lead tests, to give false positives and load and behold it does. I confirmed this with another cast iron cookware that I know 100% never touched lead. So my question is how the hell do I test this? Everyone keeps recommending the same sodium rhodizonate lead test swabs just with different brand names.

Tldr: After stripping a griddle and finding a shiny spot, I tested it for lead and it came back positive, leading to concerns about the reaction between iron and sodium rhodizonate. The question is how to accurately test for lead contamination in the griddle without potential false positives from the test method recommended by others?

Edit: wanted to add some more info. I did experiment with the test themselves to see how reliable they were and they passed it so I don't suspect its the test themselves but the chemical reaction between iron and the sodium rhodizonate

Been using signal for years and love it and got the majority of my contacts on to it. My question is how are usernames useful now? You still need to register with a phone number with signal to limit spam and bots afaik and I'm assuming you should protect your username just like you do your phone number anyways because spam, malicious files/messages, etc... What scenario is this addressing where an average person gives up their username to a stranger? The only one I can think of is online dating or other online interactions like on forums. Just seems this is just more tailored to the people who need to be pseudo-anonymous for whatever reason than an actual privacy feature. Even then for the anonymous people does that mean usernames will be able to be changed?

Tldr: Questioning what scenario does signal's new usernames address for the average Joe?

Edit: Just realized can be very useful for work relationships

Hope this is alright to ask here but was wondering if there was a setting I haven't enabled that would let me block a user without having to visit their "profile" for a lack of better words. I mostly block spammers that i see on my home feed and well I kinda don't like to expose myself to their other content just to block them. Thanks in advance for a point in the right direction

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.today/post/6586506

Wiki for android packages

Another post made me wonder if there is some kind of wiki or website for android packages with descriptions that can/should be removed via adb. Back when I had a bloated phone, about 3 years back, I remember how much of a pain in the ass this was and had to go through XDA developers and reddit posts just to get the info on which to not remove. Has this process changed since?

Another post made me wonder if there is some kind of wiki or website for android packages with descriptions that can/should be removed via adb. Back when I had a bloated phone, about 3 years back, I remember how much of a pain in the ass this was and had to go through XDA developers and reddit posts just to get the info on which to not remove. Has this process changed since?

To start off: I was explaining to my friend that I don't have a grounding point in my house (plumbing is PVC, outlets are gcfi protected only, not allowed to drive a grounding rod into the ground, etc...) and that I've just been handling sensitive electronics with just luck and preparation (humidity, moisturizer, no synthetic clothing, etc...) all this time. He told me to just wire myself to a good, multimeter tested, grounding point in a car and that will discharge any built-up static electricity. I'm not smart enough to argue with him on this subject but that doesnt seem the safest. Would that work or should I just keep doing my method? My understanding is that chassis grounding is essentially replacing wires with the frame so the outcome would just be connecting myself to the negative terminal of a car battery.

Tldr: I'm explaining my lack of a grounding point at home for sensitive electronics and is advised by my friend to wire myself to a grounded point in a car to discharge built-up static electricity. However, I'm uncertain about the safety of this suggestion and questions whether my current method of handling electronics with precautions is sufficient.

Edit: lmao people are really getting hung up on the no grounded outlet part. Umm my best explanation I guess is that its an older house that had 2 prong outlets and was "updated" with gfci protected outlets afterwards think the breakers as well. My understanding is that its up to code but I'm not an electrician. As for the plumbing I'm sure there's still copper somewhere but the majority has been updated to pvc over the years. Again it's not my house I don't want to go biting the hand that feeds me. Thank you though, haha

Edit #2: thank you all so much for the helpful advice, I really appreciate all of you!

Saw a video of a youtuber that got his account overtaken which has 2fa enabled (not sure which method but I'm thinking sms). He says he didn't get phished, downloaded anything and his session cookies weren't stolen and I believe him. The only clue is that he received a sms otp from google but was invalid when he inputted it which let's me to believe he relied on SMS for 2fa in the first place. My theory is he reused passwords and his number was overtaken but I'm not sure if that's the case since he did receive the google otp so that leaves out the common phone rep social engineering methods of porting out and fowarding. What else could it be? My paranoia is kinda acting up

Tldr: A YouTuber's account was hacked despite having 2FA. While unsure of the exact method, potential factors include relying on SMS OTP and the possibility of password reuse. No session cookies were stolen, nothing downloaded and no links clicked

Edit for timestamp: its kinda difficult since he jumps around a lot but he begins to talk about it around the 2min 30sec mark and stops at around the 6min mark