Norodix

joined 1 year ago
[–] Norodix@lemmy.world 1 points 3 weeks ago

First time I hear about inkstitch. Looks great!

[–] Norodix@lemmy.world 50 points 1 month ago (25 children)

A study comparing the environmental impacts of various single-use beverage containers has concluded that glass bottles have a greater overall impact than plastic bottles

But... but... Glass is not single use. That is the whole point. I don't like this article.

[–] Norodix@lemmy.world 3 points 2 months ago (1 children)

Have you heard? The release candidate of 1.0 dropped just a few days ago. It looks very interesting.

[–] Norodix@lemmy.world 3 points 2 months ago

In my experience the first thing that always fails is the scrollwheel. My g500s is going strong after about 10 years because it uses an optical scrollwheel instead of a potentiometer. I think this is a very important difference BUT IT IS NOT ADVERTISED OR DISPLAYED ANYWHERE WHEN YOU WANT TO BUY A MOUSE. Ridicolous. Soooo annoying. I hate marketing.

[–] Norodix@lemmy.world 1 points 3 months ago

No problem :) Let me know if you need any help!

[–] Norodix@lemmy.world 2 points 3 months ago

I don't think the PWM on the arduino is slow for your application. Motors are actually great for filtering. Even if the current is not filtered, mechanically it is so slow that you can go as low as 100Hz and still drive the motor acceptably well.

[–] Norodix@lemmy.world 1 points 3 months ago (1 children)

I also worry about the LM7818. It drops about 6V, so at 330mA it burns 2W, which seems like the maximum for the package that I quickly pulled up. If you have a very efficient buck converter that gives you at most about 1A to drive the motor. Not a lot of overhead.

Also as I said already, you could just skip the whole thing and make everything work from the 24V using PWM. Since you want to drive it with an arduino that is not a difficult thing.

[–] Norodix@lemmy.world 1 points 3 months ago (2 children)

If I were you, I would not step down the 24V, but use that to drive the motor with pwm. It requires a bit different H bridge but overall it would be simpler. But if you already have a converter module that is good enough this works too.

[–] Norodix@lemmy.world 1 points 3 months ago* (last edited 3 months ago) (8 children)

In that case I would omit the extra transistors and use only the optocouplers.

What sort of application is this? Having 18V somewhere and a 5V supply too that can output several amps is quite unusual.

[–] Norodix@lemmy.world 1 points 3 months ago

Obviously. No idea what I was thinking.

[–] Norodix@lemmy.world 2 points 3 months ago (2 children)

Is it okay that there is no stop state? It can only drive the motor in either direction, bit there is no OFF state with your inputs.

[–] Norodix@lemmy.world 12 points 3 months ago (12 children)

Please don't use non perpendicular lines and draw in a clearer software if possible. Its quite hard to read.

What is the point of the push-pull BJTs? With the optocoupler you could drive the nmos gates directly. If you need more current to drive the gates (unlikely for a small motor), I suggest you buy dedicated gate drivers. They are tested and not expensive. If you have the 18V available already, using the optocouplers directly would be a lot simpler.

 

I just received a call from an indian microsoft technician. He informed me that my PC is sending a ton of error messages to microsoft. Most likely it has been hacked, and he would help me by remoting in and fixing the problem for me. I just wonder... Is it my PopOs or my Manjaro PC that sends all this info to microsoft?

 

I just learned about a driller trick. I saw another player dig a tunnel up above the caretaker and drop a c4 on its head at the start of each phase. 2 c4s shut down all the vents in a few seconds. I tried it myself and it totally feels like cheating. You can basically skip half the fight this way. 1 supply pod right next to you in the ceiling means you can skip all vent phases

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