We have one boy and it didn't really change our life that much. Some time running him to activities and overseeing homework and such, but our hobbies and friends didn't change.

Not everyone who has kids ends up feeling this way though :(

I run just one Windows machine with some VMs for various services if needed. Less to maintain and have to tinker with.

You could try gluing it and clamping but it looks like getting a clamp on it might be hard and I have not had good luck gluing veneer that is peeling away like that. That is cheap and easy to try so I would start there though. Some of the other suggestions to repair it are good as well. I will throw out another, buy a sheet of veneer and cut out a square an inch or so larger than the area that needs to be repaired. Lay the square over the area to be repaired and cut out the bad area in the shape of the repair piece, then glue the repair piece in, a little wood putty and sanding to match might do the trick.

Depending on where it is peeling away, you might try putting on small decorative trim pieces stained or painted in a complementing color. I did this all along the underside of our countertop as decoration and to make some new cabinets blend in with older existing ones.

Out the side will be much better than through the roof as long as you don't place it too close and directly under a soffit air intake.

I wouldn't worry about the soft spot too much, it could just be the foam supports underneath the tub itself and not the floor. Even if it is the floor, that's probably within your skill-set to fix if you can manage a circular saw and swing a hammer. I hired a contractor to install a shower for me in a new bathroom because I don't have the plumbing skills or time. He outsourced the plumbing, electrical, and did the, framing, tiling, and everything else himself. The shower alone took them about a week, one of the main issues he encountered was keeping the tile lines straight. His tile saw wasn't exact enough and the cuts were ever so slightly off which caused compounding problems.

I have seen time-laps videos on Youtube of a company that retrofits houses that have crawl spaces with full basements. It is pretty amazing to watch them work. They hand dig out sections at a time and pour footings and supporting walls, they then do a final pouring of the floor. They do this without lifting the house.

Is the house occupied? If not, can the existing floor/decking be removed to get direct access to the crawl space and supports? If so, that will make the job so much easier.

While you are at it, have you considered digging out underneath the house and creating a concrete and cinder-block basement? It would cost a bit more but since you are already doing major foundation work, it might be worth it and would dramatically increase the square footage of the house. Adding a basement would allow you the freedom to bring in large excavation machines to do the digging with.

Wow, what did he "fix" then? He did a terrible job. I understand an electrician not fixing the cement block, but they should have properly installed and secured the box flush with the concrete.

If you do end up replacing just a bottom portion, be sure you use some Z-flashing so that rain water can't get behind the seam. As mentioned, use something that won't rot. I also recommend using Hardie Sierra 8 to replace entire sections, I have it on some portions of my house along with T1-11 and they compliment one another as long as they are not side by side.

Plantjam is correct. My electrician installed a main panel on my hardieboard and used 14-Gauge Electro-galvanized Half Slot Channel Struts to mount to. They mounted the struts horizontally through the Hardieboard into the sheathing/studs, caulking the screw penetrations. They then mounted the circuit breaker panel to the struts.You my need to add spacers.

On further research it seems that in this case I could have brought the polystyrene all the way down to the roof deck and flashed it with the shingles (cutting them back 2") to make the front of the polystyrene the rain barrier. Assuming I could do a good enough job to guarantee no water penetrated behind it. This would prevent the need for the 2"x1.5" board all together and the gap all the way to the sheathing which would be a big source for thermal bridging and transfer. Not sure I am confident enough to take this approach though and the flashing has already been installed by the roofer.

So my question remains, how big should the gap be above the shingles.