this post was submitted on 20 Jan 2025
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3DPrinting

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Bambu Lab Responds to Backlash Over New Firmware Update (3dprintingindustry.com)
submitted 3 days ago by cm0002@lemmy.world to c/3dprinting@lemmy.world
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Shenzhen-based 3D printer manufacturer Bambu Lab has launched a new firmware for its X1 Series of 3D printers. The optional security update introduces authorization and authentication controls for key 3D printing operations, altering how third-party software interacts with the 3D printer. 

Some in the 3D printing community have not received the news well, leading to Bambu Lab refuting claims that the firmware, currently undergoing beta testing, restricts third-party tools or forces users into a closed ecosystem. Those who choose not to install the update can continue using external software without any changes. The company has also introduced a new tool called Bambu Connect, designed to integrate third-party software with updated printers. Bambu Lab is collaborating with software developers, including Orca Slicer, to ensure a seamless connection with external tools.

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[–] IMALlama@lemmy.world 11 points 2 days ago* (last edited 2 days ago) (3 children)

2x on the recommendation. I've been slowly modding mine for about two years now. I printed the filter and magnetic panels right out of the gate.

Things I wish I did sooner:

  • sexbolt aka a z-endstop switch that won't fall out when turn your printer out or get pulled out by your extruder when you're printing TPU
  • moar bed fans to get chamber temps up faster
  • daylight on a stick
  • LDO NiteHawk and umbilical. The third wire break was enough for me. I didn't use cheap wiring, but I did use generic chains. I thought I left enough slack in the runs, but evidently you want loose loose wires in the chains so they don't rub the inner radius
  • ACM panels to help get chamber temps up. Bonus points if you print your magnetic panels clips a bit taller to fit radiant barriers on the inside
  • Clicky-clacky fridge door replaces the front doors with a wider panel and gives it a nice seal. It's also satisfying to open/close

Other than wiring breaks, and me goobering my hod end while goofing with it, it's been dead reliable. The printer has 906 hours on it with the longest print clicking in at 25.5 hours.

[–] Damage@feddit.it 2 points 10 hours ago (1 children)

Build a klicky and ditch the z-endstop if it's a 2.4

I installed Cartographer and it's nice, but not super reliable so far.

[–] IMALlama@lemmy.world 1 points 1 hour ago

It is a 2.4 and I do have a klicky. I run a Z Caliberation macro that makes it a lot less fiddily to deal with getting offset just so. I could see using klicky to be the z end stop, but I'm done tweaking things for the time being. Maybe in the next go.

[–] Damage@feddit.it 2 points 10 hours ago (1 children)

I have 5mm acrylic panels on my V2.4 250 and I get 65°C no problem

[–] IMALlama@lemmy.world 1 points 1 hour ago

Very nice!

Mine is a 350, so yay lots of panel surface area :(

Where do you have your chamber thermistor mounted? Mine is mounted to the top of my stealthburner.

[–] Fribbtastic@lemmy.world 6 points 2 days ago (1 children)

As someone who is currently building an LDO Voron (Voron 2.4 LDO Rev. D) most of those things are already included (like the Z-end-stop, the NiteHawk and panels)

[–] IMALlama@lemmy.world 2 points 2 days ago (1 children)

Unless something has changed, it looks like the LDO kits still come with acrylic panels? ACM panels are an aluminum, plastic, aluminum sandwich. You cant see through them. I also didn't see the sex bolt or door.

Enjoy the build! The LDO kits are a solid base to start from.

[–] Fribbtastic@lemmy.world 3 points 2 days ago

Thanks, yeah following the voron guide was straight forward but the LDO documentation was a bit getting used to. Some things were poorly explained while others were not mentioned at all (like the LED light assembly) but by far better than having to source everything on my own.