this post was submitted on 12 Jan 2025
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When I first started setting up my home automation, I decided on Zigbee, and I very much dove in head-first. I set up dozens of Zigbee devices, and some worked a lot better than others. I have a fairly stable Zigbee network with well over 100 devices, but many of those have been replaced over time. To save others the wasted time and money, I wanted to give a short breakdown of what I've noticed across brands.

  • SONOFF: My Zigbee controller is made by SONOFF, and it works well. As far as their motion sensors, not so much (I even made a post about how bad they were about a year ago). Their motion sensors give such unreliable results that they're borderline useless. Their plugs work generally okay, although they do drop off my network occasionally. Overall, they really wouldn't be my first choice.

  • Aquara: They make some very slick-looking devices, but they're horrible. Magnetic door sensors frequently just get stuck in an open or closed state, or just drop off the network completely. I used two of their leak sensors. One is still working well; the other just spontaneously decided to stop responding completely. I have a few of their pushbuttons; it took me at least a dozen tries to pair them, but they seem to work well after that. Overall, Aquara devices either quit responding or drop off the network more frequently than any other brand; I will never buy another Aquara device.

  • DOGAIN: I bought several of their plugs. So far, not a single issue. I assume they're a white-label brand, so I don't know who actually makes the hardware, but I have no complaints so far.

  • MHCOZY: Another white-label brand. I've purchased several of their relay switches. I haven't had a single problem with any of them, and I'm using quite a few.

  • Haozee: Probably another white-label brand. I have several of their mmWave sensors. Occasionally they get stuck in a "detected" state, but rarely. They have never dropped off my network. I'd buy more.

  • Phillips (Hue): They're exceptionally expensive, but for a reason. I have a lot of their smart bulbs, and a few outdoor motion sensors. They all work flawlessly. Don't use the Hue app or a Hue bridge, though, unless you want to be locked into their app; just pair your device with a third-party Zigbee controller.

  • Leviton: I have replaced every single in-wall switch in my home with a Leviton smart switch or smart dimmer. They're a well-known brand, so I would expect their products to work well, and they do. My only complaint is that occasionally one of the switches will drop and refuse to communicate unless I power it off (with a breaker); this is rare, though, and normally corresponds with a power outage.

  • Thirdreality: I saved Thirdreality for last because I have absolutely no complaints at all. They are my go-to for Zigbee devices. I have many of their temperature sensors, plugs, magnetic door sensors, motion sensors, soil moisture sensors, etc. I have never had a device drop off my network or stop working correctly. I have dozens of their devices, and my only issue was a climate sensor that got stuck at 99% humidity after I accidentally sprayed water into the case. That's my fault.

So, in general, if I was to re-build my Zigbee network from the ground up, I'd go for Thirdreality devices first. If they didn't make what I need, I'd go for Phillips Hue, and if I still couldn't find what I need, then that's what the list above is for.

I'm hoping to see some replies to this; what are your experiences with different Zigbee devices? Any brands you either trust or would never buy from?

Edit: As others have mentioned, your Zigbee integration (also also possibly your controller) may make a difference in reliability. I am using ZHA and a SONOFF controller. Your experience may be different.

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[–] peregus@lemmy.world 6 points 3 days ago (2 children)

O have some of Aqara windows/doors sensors and I've never had any problem. I haven't changed any battery yet and I've installed about 2 yeas ago (or was it 3? πŸ€”)

The Aqara buttons are very good as well as the motion sensors (even though I've just installed a couples at my sister's and they disappear about a day after I pair them πŸ€·πŸΌβ€β™‚οΈ)

[–] Smokeless7048@lemmy.world 1 points 2 days ago

Here to vouch for aqara sensors. My motion sensors work a treat. Just wish I got the FP1, Since I find them TOO sensitive

Sonoff coordinator, with Z2M

[–] ebc@lemmy.ca 1 points 2 days ago (2 children)

Yeah, my experience with Aqara has been like that: flawless out of the box, pairs quickly with no issues, reports state correctly, all good. Then after a random while (at least a few hours, but within a day) they just drop off the network never to be seen again until I re-pair them.

I even got an Aqara smart plug just to act as a router and pair the Aqara stuff through it, it was better but this time it dropped off after a few weeks. Might've been the battery though, it was a temperature sensor in -20Β°C.

[–] turmacar@lemmy.world 1 points 1 day ago

Yeah that'd be brutal on the battery chemistry, probably need a wired sensor. Doesn't get that cold here but was having similar issues in the negatives. Unfortunately there seem to be less options and they're more expensive for wired last I looked, but it's been awhile.

[–] peregus@lemmy.world 1 points 2 days ago

For me it's not a problem of the Aqara motion sensor because I've paired those 2 sensors in my house and they work without a problem.

[–] whaleross@lemmy.world 9 points 3 days ago* (last edited 3 days ago) (2 children)

Adding to the list, I've got several IKEA lightbulbs (the dimmable white colour temperature ones) and a few sensors (door/window, climate) that work well. Can't recommend the IKEA remote control thingy because it just stopped working and nothing could bring it back up. The support didn't sound surprised and refunded it no questions asked though so that's good.

And I've got plenty of generic tuya switches and sensors (door/window, climate, water leak etc), both old WiFi ones that are flashed with ESPHome and newer ones on ZigBee from Ali. So far they all work great.

(With the exception that I killed one and then a replacement switch by having them power a tiny LED light. Counterintuitively it seems like a thing that can wear a cheap design smart switch out if the load is too small and something something I got it explained to me by someone that understands electric circuits but now it is gone again.)

I have everything running in Home Assistant on a repurposed old NAS with a Sonoff USB ZigBee stick.

[–] claude_flammang@dju.social 2 points 3 days ago (1 children)

@whaleross
Strange, I have four different kinds of IKEA remotes, the oldest being over five years old and they all work happily with ZHA.

[–] whaleross@lemmy.world 2 points 3 days ago

Could be different revisions or something. At the time I discovered other people having the identical problem.

[–] TDCN@feddit.dk 2 points 3 days ago

I love all the ikea stuff, but true that the remote controls are absolutely garbage. I have multiple and they all are either slow, or not responding half the time. I think they have some debounce build onto the firmware and it is way too agressive.

[–] spacemanspiffy@lemmy.world 7 points 4 days ago (1 children)

I've been using Aqara door sensors, temp sensors, buttons, and others, and have had great luck with them.

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[–] Professorozone@lemmy.world 1 points 2 days ago

Thank you for this. I don't have a smart home but I was thinking about doing a home assistant. This will come in handy if I decide to do it.

[–] wildbus8979@sh.itjust.works 10 points 4 days ago* (last edited 4 days ago) (4 children)

I have to say, I have dozens upon dozens* of generic "Tuya" ZigBee devices from Ali, and they all work flawlessly. The only ones I have issues with is a couple of GU10 bulbs that the devs decided should be routers when bulbs really shouldn't route since they can be turned off at the switch. I really wished there was a way to prevent that.

*96 total devices in Z2M, a handful are SinopΓ© mains voltage thermostats for baseboard heaters (great units absolutely recommend!), another 3 are inovelli switches (again no issues here, great stuff), a dozen are Aqara (I've seen the hate but tbh I never noticed any issues). Almost everything else is Moes/Tuya. I even have a generic tuya temperature/humidity sensor that has been outside for a year and a half in the harsh Canadian climate (from -30C to 30C).

I will say, I have a couple of AIQ and mmWave sensors and I don't like them because they produce a LOT of data and kind of spam the network, if I replace them I'll do WiFi for those.

I run a HamGeek POE Coordinator.

[–] Maestro@fedia.io 7 points 4 days ago (16 children)

Bulbs are mains-powered and should be zigbee routers. The way to prevent that is to take out the switch, wire it closed, and stick a smart button over it.

[–] wildbus8979@sh.itjust.works 4 points 3 days ago* (last edited 3 days ago) (1 children)

Yeah I disagree. And I'm not the only one, many bulbs from larger brands don't route. The Sengled bulbs don't for example. IMHO bulbs work fine with dumb switches when they revert back to the last setting which most do. Nothing in the spec says a device that is mains power MUST route.

[–] ShepherdPie@midwest.social 3 points 3 days ago (3 children)

Instead of replacing the switch with a button, you can replace it with a smart switch that doesn't actually cut power when you press "off". My Zooz ZWave switches allow you to configure them to either use the internal relay to turn lights on and off (which cuts power) or disable the relay and use the ZWave side to turn the lights on and off (maintaining power).

It's an annoying issue but this is what happens when you DIY things using parts from various manufacturers with differing design ideas.

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[–] allan@lemmy.blahaj.zone 4 points 3 days ago

Huh, my 2 Aqara door sensors have been perfectly flawless.

[–] SirEDCaLot 6 points 3 days ago (2 children)

For switches / dimmers try Inovelli. Very very very tweakable. Can program things like minimum dim level, so even when you command 1% it still puts out enough power to start the LED bulb. And it will report taps and multitaps up to five taps as scene control actions. They also have a fan canopy module which can receive zigbee commands directly from a switch so the main paddle controls the light bulb and the secondary button above the LED bar controls the fan speed.

[–] Jakor@lemmy.world 2 points 3 days ago

+1 for inovelli. Now that they’re generally in stock (got mine refurbished at a discount) I would use them across the board in a heartbeat.

[–] ivanovsky@lemm.ee 2 points 3 days ago (1 children)

Are they easy to get now? Last I checked they had supply issues where most stuff is usually out of stock or comes back in waves or something (this would had been 2+ years ago)

[–] SirEDCaLot 2 points 3 days ago (1 children)

Oh yeah they fixed that. I remember what you're talking about, they went out of stock for like months or years at a time. That is no longer the case. Their flagship switch is in stock on their website all three flavors (Z-Wave/ ZigBee / Thread)

[–] ivanovsky@lemm.ee 2 points 2 days ago

Awesome. Maybe time to restart that project, then. Thanks for the info.

[–] huskypenguin@sh.itjust.works 8 points 4 days ago (9 children)

Are you using zigbee2mqtt or ZHA? I've found a massive performance difference in Aqara devices between the two.

[–] theyllneverfindmehere@lemmy.world 4 points 4 days ago (2 children)

I started using zigbee2mqtt so I could use Aqara devices. They are the items I've had the least issues with since setting it up.

It also seems like zigbee2mqtt just has a wider net of compatible devices in general.

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[–] giacomo@lemm.ee 6 points 4 days ago (2 children)

I have two Aquara door sensors and a thermometer and they all work flawlessly for me. I have automations with the door sensors to turn on some sengled lights for their respective rooms, and it happens almost instantaneously. The thermometer just tells me the temperature on the back deck, so not much going on with that. But I haven't had any of them drop off the network.

I'm also using a Sonoff usb for my controller and it has been solid for two years.

I recently picked up some Thirdreality color bulbs, and i think they are pretty solid. The only gripe I have is that their colors seem to be kinda off. But it does white light very well, so they're good enough for me.

[–] llamatron@lemmy.world 5 points 4 days ago* (last edited 4 days ago) (5 children)

Aquara door sensors here too and they work great. I have one that turns on the kitchen light after sunset when the back door is opened and it works flawlessly.

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[–] Damage@feddit.it 3 points 4 days ago (4 children)

I agree with the door sensors, they work great and sip battery.

The thermometers (the square ones from a few years back) suck tho, they drop off the network all the time. I've replaced them with those generic Ali round ones with the display, they take AAA batteries which is a plus.

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[–] phrogpilot73@lemmy.world 4 points 4 days ago* (last edited 4 days ago)

While I don't have the number of devices you do, I can add two observations:

Kwikset Zigbee Door Locks have been rock solid since the day I installed them. No issues dropping off the network. The only downside is occasional delay in reporting state (locked/unlocked) to HA. Getting it to respond to a command to lock/unlock is near instantaneous.

Ikea Zigbee devices have also been rock solid. The only issue is that none of them seem to report battery level reliably. Other than that, there are zero issues.

[–] limelight79@lemm.ee 2 points 3 days ago (1 children)

I just ordered one of those MHCOZY relays, hoping to use it in my RV to control the furnace (via the thermostat connection). Glad to hear they are reliable!

[–] corroded@lemmy.world 1 points 2 days ago* (last edited 2 days ago) (1 children)

I use one for the same thing! I have a pellet stove, and I set the knob to "on," then installed a relay in line with the knob. HA monitors temperature with another sensor and switches the pellet stove as needed.

I've got another two connected to solenoid valves, and another in a custom lighting system. They've been rock solid for a year or two.

The wide input power range is really convenient, too. Depending on what you're controlling, you can probably either just power it off the same supply, or grab any random adapter and hack off the barrel plug.

[–] limelight79@lemm.ee 1 points 2 days ago (1 children)

We should start a "home automation pellet stove" community, now that there are at least two of us.

Mine has all electronic controls. I use a power monitoring plug to detect if it's running and turn on a nearby ceiling fan if so. It also counts how long it has been running to let me know when to clean it (~150 hours of run time). I have a Shelly 1 connected to the thermostat wires, and a temperature sensor elsewhere the room tied together in HA to make a thermostat to control the stove. I have a fairly complex script that sets the pellet stove's temperature based on various factors like time of day, outdoor temperature, etc. If the thermostat doesn't call for heat for half an hour, the pellet stove automatically shuts down and will restart if heat is called for (this functionality is built into the stove).

I'd like to monitor the level of pellets, and I'd like to have control of the level - it can run on levels 1-5, controlled by a push button. I normally keep it on 2, but on a really cold morning, jacking it up to 4 or 5 would be helpful - and make it even more critical I monitor the level of pellets.

[–] corroded@lemmy.world 1 points 1 day ago (1 children)

My pellet stove is a bit different. It has a built-in thermostat, and a combination rotary switch/potentiometer to control the temperature. This switch has a single wire that tells the controller to shut off the stove (wire is shorted) or control the on/off set points based on the resistance. I just leave it at "fully-on" and use a normally-closed relay to control it. When HA wants to turn on the stove, it just switches the relay to open, which tells the stove to start up and continue running until the relay is closed. The built-in thermostat just switches the stove on/off, so I'm essentially just disabling that and offloading it to HomeAssistant.

I also have a fairly complex automation for my stove. I'm using it to heat a large workshop, but I generally only use my shop on days I'm not going to work. On my off days, HA checks my location (from my phone), and if I'm home, it'll heat up my shop in the early morning so it's already comfortable when I wake up. It's tied into my occupancy sensors, so if the ambient temperature is below a set point and somebody is in the shop, it'll maintain the temperature even if my schedule doesn't mandate it. It also takes into account outdoor temperature, and it overrides everything and heats up my shop anyway if it's at risk of freezing (frozen wood glue doesn't work very well). I also monitor run time, and it'll send me a notification when it needs to be cleaned. I use 18 hours, though; with my stove, I think if I let it go to 150 like yours, it'd be a fire hazard.

I hadn't thought of monitoring pellet level, but I really like your idea. I think a beam sensor at the bottom of the hopper might do the trick. It wouldn't give a level, but it work to let you know when it's empty. I'm also wondering of you could install an IR emitter and photodiode on the hopper door facing downward and calculate a fill level based on how much light is reflected back. Maybe a series of contact switches from top to bottom. It'd definitely be a fun project.

[–] limelight79@lemm.ee 1 points 1 day ago

I have two thoughts on the pellet level - both measuring from the top. I have a few OpenGarage devices and a SaltSentry. Both essentially do the same thing, measure the distance between the sensor and the next object it encounters, but they are different methods - the SaltSentry uses a time of flight sensor, and from what I can tell from the pictures, it's just that small little thing at the point of the device. The OpenGarage uses a larger ultrasonic sensor.

Look how small and cheap those time of flight sensors are on a small breadboard (I literally just found those). Mount that on the underside of the top of the hopper, run some wires to an esp32 or similar, config it, and boom, I think.

Our detached garage has a propane furnace (one of those that hangs in the corner of the room). I just recently put a Shelly 1 into the thermostat circuit to control it, then I tried to attach a temperature sensor to it, so it can act as a thermostat...then I found that you need the Shelly Add-on to actually attach a sensor to it... So I got the Shelly Plus Add-On...but that's for a later generation of Shelly 1 than I currently have........so my next purchase will be a newer generation Shelly 1 to replace the Shelly 1 I already....yeah, this has been a frustrating experience. And I'm not a huge fan of Shelly after they took an order and my money and never delivered the product in 2023. So, if I buy Shelly, it's only via Amazon now.

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