SAP stands for Slow Arduous Process.
Rolive
joined 2 years ago
This belongs in What We Do In The Shadows.
Time to cherry pick some workers.
I was looking for the pattern as well.
I'll hold out my thumb. If my thumb is bigger than the mushroom cloud I'll play a few hours of GTA6 first.
A meme about a meme about memes. Impressive.
Finally, bull milk!
Can't complain about that one!
Well that is one thing I'll never have. My appendix got removed years ago.
Do you mean the steam deck?
I just use tweezers and a blue flame lighter. Heat it for 5 seconds then put it in the plastic. Then use the back of the tweezers as a flat surface to push it all the way in and level it.
This worked well so far and I really don't see the need for a special soldering iron bit or a press like this.
This is a WIP and at this point don't know if it's going to be successful or not. I'm currently building it. The idea is to use the Mercury One build but modify it so that it uses 10mm rods on the X axis instead of an aluminium extrusion with an MGN12 rail. I have a set of these rods on hand and want to use the MGN12 rail on a DIY CNC instead. These rods seem good enough for a 3D printer and I don't want to waste them.
I have decided to modify the Mercury One so that it has a different X assembly and a completely custom toolhead that houses the stock Ender5 hotend or a MicroSwiss hotend coupled with an Orbiter 1.5 extruder. Later I'll make a different toolhead for a better hotend but for now the MicroSwiss is good enough.
The red parts are original MercuryOne parts, the green ones are the ones I designed. I haven't bothered with rounding or chamfering yet. I have also imported some things from GrabCAD such as the BLtouch, hotend and fans.
This is quite the Frankenstein creation and I wonder, what am I supposed to call it? It barely resembles an Ender5 at this point, only the frame does.
I feel a bit bad for still using Gdrive but here's the FreeCAD file. I only put things in Gdrive that I want to share publicly so idc if they spy on me. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1WFskq_OpdML4qeyOsKfkcaarW1QUJOB5/view?usp=sharing
This is for older car models that do not have built-in navigation or bad navigation. My car is old enough to have a cassette player.
This model is made for a Toyota Yaris from 2001 and the phone inside is an S21 Ultra that would otherwise have been sitting in a drawer.
I have sacrificed the original sunvisor to get the swivel part out and modeled a new sunvisor around it. Since this car is really old it's okay to make these modifications.
So far the driving experience has improved a lot, it is a pretty decent location for a navigation system since you can focus on driving much more easily than having to look down and to the right.
The models and FreeCAD design file may be found here:
https://www.printables.com/model/1256013-toyota-yaris-sun-visor-with-navigation-phone
Hi there
The purpose of this schematic is to control a DC motor that runs at 8V max. That is why I chose 4 N-channel mosfets in the H bridge. P-channels would not fully activate at voltages above -10Vgs but the N-channels can handle 18V at the gate.
The 5v switches represent an Arduino's digital output pins. One to turn forward, one for reverse. To prevent a failure scenario where both pins are HIGH I added a transistor that prevents current from flowing through the optocoupler on the second half bridge.
Does this circuit make sense? I'm not an electronics engineer, just a hobbyist and have doubts about how effective the gate driving circuit is of the mosfets.
Thanks!
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I use a small hotplate at about 125 degrees and an aluminium baking tray. If you spread the beads out thinly it will dry pretty quickly.
Alternatively you can use an old microwave and that should remove moisture from the silica gel in a matter of minutes. You can easily overheat them though and I would never use that microwave for food again.